RLR module
Important – the Rally Light Relay module is only suitable for the factory rally lights!
I learned today that the RLR module cannot cope with higher rated bulbs than the factory 55W ones … not sure there is anything I can do about it! See comments from Tim for more details
Introduction
The MINI rally lights look great, but their electronic control does not suit everyone …
The official rally light relay module has two limitations:
- You always have to “arm” the rally lights by pressing the switch once, after starting the car
- There is no way to override the control and turn the rally lights on without high beams
I decided to develop a replacement for the original relay module, designed “plug and play” to enable easy installation:
(my RLR module)
(plugged in to the original rally light wiring harness)
The “RLR” module provides all the same features as the original rally lights:
- the switch controls whether the lights are “armed” or not; the LED on the switch indicates “armed”
- when “armed”, the lights will automatically come on with high beams
In addition, I designed in the following extras:
- you can configure the “RLR” to be “armed” when the car is started – no need to press the switch
- you can “override” the high beam interlock
- flashing the high beams cancels the “override”
(if you are interested you can see the inside of the “RLR” here)
Installation
The “RLR” is installed in place of the original rally light relay which should be behind the knee bolster (or euro shelf) below the steering wheel. Gain access to the area by pulling down the knee bolster or removing the euro shelf, then follow the wires from the rally light switch to find the relay.
Remove the original relay, and fit the “RLR” in its place. You will need to ease the connector clips around the body of the “RLR” because the new module is a little wider than the original. It is recommended to use a zip tie to hold the “RLR and connector together.
Test the installation before re-assembling the car; start the engine, turn on high beams, and confirm that pressing the switch toggles the rally lights on/off (and is indicated by the LED in the switch). Also, with the rally lights on, turn off high beams and confirm that the rally lights automatically turn off.
After this confirmation, you can re-assemble the car.
Normal operation
With the car running you can press the rally light switch to toggle the RLR between “armed” and “un-armed”; when the RLR is “armed”, the green LED in the switch will be illuminated. This functions identically to the official relay. When the RLR is “armed”, the rally lights will turn on automatically whenever the high beams are on; again this is identical to the official functionality.
Setting “auto-armed” mode
With the car running, press and hold the rally light switch so that the LED comes on. Keep the switch pressed for at least three seconds – the LED will blink off then back on again;this confirms that “auto-armed” mode is active.
When “auto-armed” mode is active, the LED will be on each time the car is started, and the rally lights will automatically come on when the high beams are on.
If you want to cancel “auto-armed” mode, so that the “RLR” functions like the official rally light relay and requires that the switch be pressed after the car is started, you can do this. Again with the car running, press and hold the rally light switch so that the LED turns off. Keep the switch pressed for at least three seconds – the LED will blink on then back off again;this confirms that “auto-armed” mode is cancelled.
“RLR override” mode
The “RLR” has a feature which enables you to “override” the need to have high beams on before the rally lights can be turned on! To enable the override, simply “double-click” the rally light switch – the rally lights will immediately be turned on and the LED will blink continuously to confirm that override is active.
To cancel the override and turn off the rally lights, either press the switch or simply flick the high beams on (or you can press the switch which will “un-arm” the RLR as well as cancelling the override – flicking the high beams on leaves the RLR still “armed”).
IMPORTANT: Please be courteous! Do not dazzle other road users – thank you.
Update: Daytime Running Lights
I’ve had a few customer report problems with the module “flickering” the lights on/off when they should be off. I recently had the idea that perhaps the problem is caused by MINIs with activated daytime running lights, which rapidly pulse the highbeams on/off to simulate a less bright light. So I’ve modified the program to deal with that possibility – now I just need an owner that had a problem to (a) confirm they have daytime running lights and (b) try and confirm the modification fixes the problem!
Comments from Josh Wardell after being “RLR tester” for a week
Installed & Working!
Boy that was a tough angle to do from inside the car. It would be easy to sit out the door and work from the footwell but not when it’s snowy and windy outside.
They had done a good job of installing [the original], ziptied in place well. The relay pulled off with a yank, no need to release the clips. Trying to bend the clips which were surprisingly strong, they snapped..which is what I figured I would do anyway. [the new RLR] seems pretty secure in the socket so I’ll hold off on the ziptie till I get some decent weather to work in there. Of course, you have no idea how many other wires I have jammed in that area…
Here were my tests:
Auto-on was already enabled. Either this is default, or because you had enabled it in testing.
Held in and disabled auto-on. Works fine.
Double-clicked with high beams off – driving lights turned on. Flashed high beams, and that turned off the driving lights. However, Auto-on was now enabled!
So bug or quirk, I certainly don’t care or plan to disable it, but so you know. I’ll continue to test it over the next few days. I really like the look of the blinked LED when double-clicked.
[Later]
Some more testing today, everything seems fine except the exiting out of double-clicked mode. For example, it is enabled and LED is on.
Double click to activate driving lights. Single click to turn them off, but now the LED is off and the system is disabled … it should return to its previous state. Power off and back on again and it does re-enable itself though. [this is by design - I have clarified the description above]
Also note it powers on with accessory power, not full engine power. [yes - that is how the original relay is wired]
I actually like it this way..certainly easy for testing, I don’t need to turn the engine or instruments on. It also means they can be turned on without any other running lights at all….good for when the police are chasing you at night. 
Comments from Tim
The RLR seems to work just as designed until you go into override mode. I went into override and pushed the button twice to turn on the rally lights, they came on. I then took the coop for a early evening drive and noticed that after around 5-10min, the rally lights start to flicker. I pushed the rally light button and they turned off, just as designed. I havent noticed the rally lights flicker when i have my headlights and fogs on at the same time, strange huh?
Im not sure if this has to do with my choice of installation methods which cause a loose connection (i did ziptie the RLR to the connector) or just that weird wiring you spoke of earlier in our whole conversation. Unfortunately I dont really drive for extended periods at night (a mere 5min daily to get home from work) but i will investigate further when i have the time. Either way I’m very happy with RLR, it does what i primarily wanted it to do, allow me to turn on the rally lights while having my headlights and fogs on.
[My reply: Your description sounds like the RLR module is going into temperature overload. Is it possible to reach and feel the case of the module after a drive where it starts to flicker - does it feel hot? Are your rally lights the original factory ones - two lamps only, with the original factory bulbs? Higher wattage after-market bulbs might overload the circuit, but the standard 55W bulbs x 2 would be no more than 10A current, with the driving circuit capable of handling that easily.
I don't think it could be a wiring problem / loose wire, because of the time delay before the problem occurs. A wiring problem would generally show up immediately, every time.]
[Tims reply:] You bring up a very good point, the rally lights are the original factory ones but the bulbs themselves are not. Upon checking, i found that these are 85watt PIAA bulbs!
[Tim also comments:] It is strange though how the factory relay did not cause the same problem. Is the factory relay more tolerant of the extra amperage?
[My reply: I don't know the spec of the factory relay, but apparently it has a bit more "spare capacity" than my replacement]
Interested?
The module is priced at $45.00, plus shipping. If you are interested in an “RLR” module please contact me
